Croatia is More Than Just a Beach Vacation
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When you think of Croatia, you probably image summer, the sea, and swimming. But inland Croatia has many beautiful and wild hidden areas that would be a shame to miss. Pack your camera and some good shoes, we’re going on an adventure.
Plitvice Lakes
Our first stop is the town of Slunj, located at the confluence of the Slunjčica and Korana rivers. Part of the town is built above the waterfalls. Enjoy good food and a “gemišt” (wine with mineral water) while watching the flowing waterfall. An old wood house has an old mill where you can grind your own flour and take it home.
Before sunset, we head to the Plitvice Lakes National Park. This extensive karst area is made up of a system of beautiful lakes. The circular route leads above the falls with a view of the lakes and walkways over the water’s surface.
Plitvice Lakes National Park is a system of four lower lakes and twelve upper lakes connected by cascading waterfalls. The largest and deepest lake is Lake Kozjak (815ha and 46m). The lakes vary in color from emerald green to deep blue.
A wide-angle lens is useful for photographing the lakes since it can fit the whole scene in the frame. A polarizing filter is also useful. And you can also use a graduated ND filter to help with the large differences in light between the sky and canyon.
The lake system is located on the Bijela and Crna rivers. The high waterfall of the Plitvice River, which gave the lakes their name, falls into the canyon from the side at the end. All streams then converge and continue as the Korana River.
The park is home to highly protected endemic plant species. You can find a meadow with 42 species of orchids or 16 species of lilies. Large predators, like bears, wolves, and lynxes also live in the surrounding forests.
Old Željava Airport
Traces of war are still visible in remote areas, but the old military airport with a hangar carved into the rock is the most striking. With 35km of tunnels cut into the massive rock, this is a fascinating place.
To enter the tunnels, you will need a flashlight, a sweater, and a good sense of. You also need sturdy shoes and to be careful where you step. The dark space can be used for creative light painting. So, if you plan to take pictures in the tunnels, bring colored lights with you and let your imagination run wild.
For light painting, don’t forget a tripod and a wireless remote shutter. Manually focus the camera and switch to M mode, set the f-number as needed (I used f/8), set the ISO to 100, and turn off automatic mode. The shutter speed ranges between 20s-60s.
Štrbački Buk Waterfall and the Una River
If you have time, definitely venture beyond Croatia’s borders. Bosnia has many beautiful places to visit. Bosnia is a Southern Slavic nation with a large Islamic population. There are many interesting mosques to visit.
Right on the border along the old railway, you can get to the beautiful and powerful Štrbački Buk waterfall. Currently, facilities with a small café are being built directly above the waterfall, so you will be able to enjoy this beautiful place with a coffee in hand. Just be prepared because you will need a good car and an experienced driver for the trip.
Source of the Cetina River and Dinara Mountains
The Cetina River, also known as the “Eye of Dalmatia,” is over 70m deep. It emerges from a system of karst caves and corridors. The water here is cold but perfect for drinking. The Serbian Orthodox Church of the Ascension stands on the hill above the spring.
The Dinara mountain range and its highest peak Sinjal (1,831 m), also known as Dinara Peak, spreads around the source of the river. There are several routes to the top of the mountain, including a via Ferrata that leads over the peak of Ošljak (1,589 m).
The most common starting point for the ascent is the village of Glavaš. From there, the journey to the top takes about 5 hours with an elevation gain of around 1,300 meters. There is a fresh spring where you can refill your water bottles at an altitude of 1,000 meters above sea level. But in the summer months, it might not be flowing. So, bring plenty of fluids, long pants, and hiking poles for the ascent. There are many reptiles in inland Croatia, including the most venomous snake in Europe, the horned viper.
Be cautious during the ascent; there are often very strong winds on the ridge, and clouds can cover you in fog, making getting around a challenge. If you are lucky, the mountain will reward you with a magnificent view. If not, you will enjoy beautiful, vibrant nature full of birds, butterflies, and blooming mountain plants like the purple iris.
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Peace and local life around Lake Peruća
Our guide described this location beautifully: “Untouched nature, breathtaking springs of rivers and waterfalls. The rugged landscape with mountain peaks and mysterious caves. Minimal traces of tourism and welcoming locals. Traditional accommodation with a view of the ‘Dinaric’ sea, Lake Peruća, with excellent breakfast and dinner made from homegrown ingredients from the kind host’s garden. Simply a place where even ‘ordinary’ vegetables taste like a three-course menu. And in the areas around, there is only wild nature full of birds, reptiles, and freely grazing cows, sheep, and horses, guarded by local dogs.”
Our hosts, Ante and Kristýna, prepared a wonderful dinner for us one evening up in the mountains. We then traveled by jeep to an old, abandoned village. There is a stone house with a repaired roof where Ante prepared traditional ćevapi on the fire with fried potatoes and pita bread.
The wildness of the surrounding landscape and the beautiful sunset accompany us through a lovely evening full of relaxation and laughter.
Beautiful turquoise rivers full of waterfalls
Croatia has incredibly clean rivers with beautiful colors. If you don’t mind temperatures around 8°C, there are places where you can take a refreshing dip. You can watch the massive rocky canyons around the rivers and the various waterfalls for long stretches of time.
If you want to capture the flow and dynamics of the waterfall, a dark neutral-density filter and a tripod are suitable for sunny weather. This will extend the shutter speed, capturing the water’s flow.
It would be a shame to miss the coastal towns by the sea. A one-day stop for swimming was very refreshing. The local port towns are picturesque and have many beautiful hidden gems. The stone walls and narrow streets of the old town are perfect for portrait photography. Laughing faces and beautiful clothing perfectly contrast with the surrounding houses.
What does co-author Veronika Flodrová say about Croatia and its beauties?
“Even though it was never my intention, Croatia called me a few years ago and got under my skin thanks to its hospitality and people, natural beauty, and forgotten areas outside the tourist resorts, but also the sea, beautiful coastal towns, and corners. Today, Croatia is like my second home. I love the mountains and the sea, hikes and occasional lounging on the beach, and also new experiences with places, people, and their stories from all over the world.”
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